Fast Confession - Liběna Rochová: People Should Be in Touch with themselves more, they Would Feel Happier

The Mercedes Benz Prague Fashion Week certainly belongs among one of the biggest fashion events in the Czech Republic. How did you prepare for it?

The preparations did not take long. I have long not been present to this event in person. But that does not mean that I don´t hold it in very high estimation. On the contrary. I consider this fashion week as an excellent opportunity for presentation and that is why this event is regularly participated upon by our Studio of Design, Clothing and Footwear, UPRUM. In my opinion the students should know how it works. To be part of it and not just observe it from the outside.

What is your take on this year´s fashion week?

We are working on a project called Power of Identity, drawing from traditions of Czech culture. This year we are celebrating 100 years since the creation of the republic. And one could say that we are building on it. Every student chose what specifically he or she will work on. Everyone had an option to choose a topic as well as inspiration source. I personally prefer them to do more creative things. That´s because now they have an option. When and where else should they do it than now, during their studies. Later on, when they will have to make a living, they will need to do more realistic things, wearable ones. So, while they can, let them be more involved in art.

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Why don´t you personally not take a part in the fashion week as the designer?

Although I support it, I left this scene in the nineties. I did not want to be a part of the master production. In 1991 I sold my first collection and from then on I sold a collection each year at a fashion week in Germany. However, very quickly I came to realise that this is not the way I want to go. I am independent and rather than trader in clothing, I am a creator. And I think that that would have beaten down my creative mind. The other thing is that in the 1990's there was not a team of people here that would cooperate with a free-minded designer. That simply was not the case. I had to do a lot of things by myself. And this was extremely exhausting. So, I told myself, that I did not want to lose my creative mind, and I therefore I left the master production altogether.

Have you ever received an offer you ´couldn´t refuse´?

Once I got an offer from a shop on 5th Avenue in New York. It was a nice idea, but eventually I came to realise that even this was not what I wanted. I do not want to work just for what the market wants. I intend to do things in which I believe. There was a time when it was a major trend to have a store and work there for ten to twelve hours. Suddenly you are dealing with things like if you can pay the rent. In short, I did not want to get into a loop, into that carousel, which was the trend in those days. Although I have to say that as regards trade, having your own boutique, that nowadays the conditions are definitely better. That is why I also have a studio, on purpose on the first floor. Women may thus come to have tailored things made on order, and twice a year the studio is open to the public. Then I make chamber fashion shows or exhibitions, where I present a small-scale, wearable collection, which is of course a limited one. Customers already know that I operate on my own, that means that what I have made is available in a maximum of three exemplars. If it is a specific, special piece, I will do it only once, as an original. The purchasing power is smaller here and mainly the segment which I address is very small and I cannot afford three women having the same striking dress.

In the past, was that fact of having a niche market a source of some worry on your part?

I have never seen it like that. The truth is that once I actually got a question whether I do not mind that in the Prague centre one does not see ten coats by my brand in the streets. And I said that I didn´t mind. I prefer to make, I hope, a cutting-edge design, of excellent craftsmanship and an original, where the item is handmade, for the one discerning client. I much prefer this originality.

Can the fashion week in Prague be compared with those that are held elsewhere around the world?

I would like to say that it is so. There are nevertheless, and there always will be the top four places in the world for fashion weeks - New York, London, Milan and Paris. It is simply so. However, thanks to God there are new ones beginning to be organised elsewhere, for example in India and new places around the world. And that is good. It enhances local industries, so the Mercedes Benz Prague Fashion Week supports Czech designers in particular.

Recently a Czechoslovak mutation of Vogue magazine was published. Have you had a chance to read it?

Yes, yes. Actually it also featured one of my models. Even my students´ work was published there. It was for this very issue of Vogue that we have made a kind of blue coat, which may now be seen on display in the UMPRUM museum.

The nation is divided into two camps. One sees this first number very positively and the second the opposite. How do you feel about it?

I don´t at all think it is horrible. The beautiful thing is that we finally have a chance again to present ourselves. It is an excellent opportunity for both the Czech as well as Slovak designers. They get some space. There didn´t use to be as much. This can certainly help. Otherwise in Vogue I liked two feature stories. One was about films, Czech films, which confirmed my view that they really are world-class. And then I liked the story with Olga and amazing Karolína Kurková.

What should not a fashion designer lack?

Obsession, drive, managerial skills, talent. Although, as regards talent, it is about 20 to 30 percent of what a designer should have. He should be able to have a feel for the situation, sense opportunities. And not look at trends; that is, not follow them. Be himself. Do his own things with personal touch.

So if I were to ask you now what the trend of this year is, you wouldn´t tell me?

I am basically not concerned about it. Yes, I follow it, but that is all. It is important to realise that every designer should have a certain degree of openness, generosity, exaggeration and obviously patience. It is necessary also to have the funds and this is very individual. They are not there sometimes, and so it takes courage.

Can you still remember your first piece which you sold?

I know that it was on order. But for whom specifically I cannot remember. But I recall one model for curator of the UPRUM museum, Mrs Lamar. At that time she had an exhibition in Tokyo. It was a leather suit. I have received a clear message: "Now it´s me, thank you." So I was pleased. I prefer work to order. It is more personal. You work for a specific person. The advantage of contracted work is that you can order anything. You will not merge with the crowd. You will be original. Moreover, you can experiment, show off more.

But you keep wearing black?

Black is beautiful.  I love black and if you highlight it with some extravagant handbag or shoes, it is a smash hit. Sometimes I also wear a little colour, but black is black. I hide in this colour. I don´t draw attention to myself. Through my work, yes, but otherwise I don´t. I feel calmer in black. It has been like that virtually throughout my entire life.

This year we are celebrating 100 years since the establishment of the republic. When you look back, is there any period that impresses you fashion-wise?

Clearly the period of the first Czechoslovak Republic. At that time we were part of the world, the developed world. Women were cultured, sometimes also educated and this was reflected in fashion, too. At that time the republic had something to say to the world. The elegance was incredible. Of course, after that there was the 50´s and 60´s fashion, but not in this country any longer. It was not permitted in those days to dress extravagantly. But this does not mean that we didn´t. We got into trouble about that many times, for example in Prague, Na Příkopech.

I feel that fashion repeats itself after a certain time. Stripes, dots, animal prints. Is there something we will never see you in?

Fashion is repeated constantly. It was always the case and it always will be. Maybe some small things are altered. But that depends on each designer. I certainly do not myself wear animal motifs. But that does not mean that I do not like it. Why not? Animals, such as leopards or tigers fascinate me. But I wouldn´t put it on. However, my Mother loved it. I used to bring her from all over the world everything that had an animal motif on it. Bracelets, handbags, shoes, sweaters, but also linen or cushions. It was her speciality. And every woman should find her own things in which she feels great. Whether it is just purely black, animal motifs or oversize clothes. I think that it is a big mistake when a woman lets herself be swept by a trend. Of course, she can follow it, get inspiration, but she shouldn´t copy it. After all, every woman is original. And this should be reflected by every woman´s wardrobe. And of course, this applies to men, too. It applies in general. And not only in fashion. Unfortunately, these are times when the majority goes with the crowd. It reminds me a bit of the moment when you get off the tube and don´t know which exit to use. So you go with the crowd. There is nothing wrong with that, but unfortunately, most people then blend in with the crowd, instead of turning off in their direction. It is the same with fashion, it is the same with everything. People should be more in touch with themselves, they would be happier then. And yes, it is about what you put on in the morning for work and then for dinner with your partner. If you step out in the morning into a new day and you don´t feel one hundred percent in your outfit, it will drag on with you all day.