Cosmetics expert Lenka Průšová: CBD has great potential, but it can't do everything. Every substance has its pros and cons.

Does cosmetics really work? In a time when there are many variants? Isn't that a trade with illusion?

This is a great question for someone who has been doing nothing else but mixing cosmetics for the last fifteen years. Yes, it is probably expected that I will say it works. And yes, it just works. So cosmetics, like every other field, has undergone a great development. I most often compare it to mobile phones and what was absolutely impossible twenty years ago is now absolutely common. For me, when I see new high-tech material trends, it is a technological peak, so it works.

What can we believe in these days? There must be some myths as well. Can we debunk some and on the other hand, can we mention at least three myths?

I always advise consumers to think about what the manufacturer promises them. If it is too pleasingly fairy tale-like, it usually might not be true. And the typical myths that are promised are that cosmetics cure, that they will cure eczema, that they will cure psoriasis, this is not within the competence of cosmetics by their definition, by their structure. They can't cure. It will somehow modify your skin, your feeling, the appearance of your skin, yes, but it will never cure diseases and neither will it act as a prevention against cold sores. This is the most common myth I see, the most common transgression of manufacturers, who let themselves be carried away by "this will cure x, y, z things." That's really not true. The second myth, which is common, is that pharmacy cosmetics are of higher quality or have different parameters than drugstore cosmetics, and this is not true. As soon as something is cosmetics, the same paragraphs apply to it. The legal process of introducing cosmetics to the European Union market is exactly the same for a product from a pharmacy and for a product from a drugstore. The third myth is that organic or natural cosmetics are safer than conventional cosmetics, which contain some synthetic ingredients. This is not true, because again it has to do with the pharmacy or the drugstore. Safety parameters are the same for all categories, whether it is natural, whether it contains 5% synthetics, whether it contains more percent synthetics, it is always a cosmetic product, it is assessed as a whole and the safety parameters are the same for cosmetics everywhere.

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What education do I have to have in order to work in the field of cosmetics. How did you do it and who did you learn from and how did you get to it? 

Let's rather say what education you should have. Lots of people do cosmetics without education, and I find that amusing, like a doctor operating who is not a doctor. For me it's good when the person is a chemist, has a chemical education. Often pharmacists are also able to mix decent cosmetics. A big misconception is that cosmetics are developed by a dermatologist. A dermatologist is a doctor who deals with skin problems, skin diseases and is usually a very experienced practitioner. I definitely wouldn't want to lower their credibility, but a dermatologist is the one who uses the cosmetic products. 

Is there a certain touch? When I take some product, can I tell it's yours?

I recognize my own. I dare to say, I recognize them because I use a lot of innovative things, a lot of innovative emulsifiers. Sometimes even the supplier comes and says "this emulsifier is so expensive, I will sell it only to you". Not everyone is willing to invest so much into the composition. It's not just about the price, but it's probably much like when a music composer composes music, you can recognize the touch and this is also a composition of its kind and really when I look at the structure, I recognize my own things even after years.

Will I, as a complete layman, recognize it?

Maybe my mom will recognize it too. She has been living with my cosmetic products for a long time and often tells me "you brought me something again that you didn't make, didn't you?" And I say "I didn't make it, it's just some sample that I got." My users, who have been using it for a long time will also recognize it.

You are currently collaborating with a Czech cosmetic brand that has CBD in its products. Can you reveal something about these products?

The main component is cannabidiol. We started working with it many years ago, back in 2017. Together with a colleague, we began developing this cosmetics and it needs to be said that if one tenth of the things that are said about cannabidiol were true, the world would be a beautiful place. It is a substance with great dermatological potential, capable of initiating regenerative processes in the skin, but it is necessary to also mention side B, if it is in the wrong matrix, only in some oil or dissolved in ointment, the effect will never be as when it is in the structure of crystals in emulsion, when there are other substances that complement their effects. It is never just about that one substance, it is about the composition, the whole and in addition to cannabidiol, there must be other substances. It will not hydrate you, it will regenerate the skin, so it is good when there is something for that hydration, like hyaluronic acid. It is good when there is some vitamin. A good substance with great potential but it can't do everything, it is not magical.

Do these CBD products differ in any way from those already on the market? 

The hemp market is like the "wild wild west" to me, it seems like everyone who has an even pair of limbs understands hemp and the hemp industry here. And that's not the case and it's certainly not the case that anyone who has CBD is capable of turning it into a final, meaningful product. One that has the desired effects, and a large majority of hemp products with CBD content are really very trivial because someone takes cannabidiol, dissolves it in something and that's all and waits for a miracle. That's not how it works. You need more than just a pot, a spoon, and a stove where you dissolve the cannabidiol in the oil, you need technology. Yes, there are products on the market that are at the top level but there are also complete opposites. It's like in any other field, like you have a good and a bad cook, like you have a good and a bad bricklayer, so you have top-notch products with cannabidiol and then you have "something with cannabidiol" and I wouldn't even call it a product. 

What do you think about a potential CBD ban?

This does not concern cosmetics. CBD is a "novel food" and should not be used in dietary supplements or food until its toxicological profile is declared. This is a question for the State Agricultural and Food Inspection Authority (SZPI), the Ministry of Agriculture, and how they view European legislation. Basically, the ban is in effect in some countries in Europe. In the cosmetic industry, CBD as an ingredient has not even been announced as being banned. It is therefore necessary to distinguish what is cosmetic, what is a dietary supplement, and what is food.

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What does fermentation mean in cosmetics?

It's taken from food. Simply put, the fermentation process is the process where I take large molecules and cleave them into smaller molecules using enzymes or microorganisms. And the point is that the skin is better able to absorb these molecules. A typical example of fermentation are the so-called prebiotics. We take complex carbohydrates, cleave them and this prebiotic product serves as natural food for our microbiome. Fermentation is now a widely used process, where we use traditional natural methods to achieve results.

How do I know that cosmetics are working? 

You will notice it on yourself. The cell regeneration cycle lasts 28 days and you should see some changes on yourself within the longest a month. There are substances that can do it a bit earlier. There are studies on a substance that can do it in 14 days, there are substances that have an immediate effect like AH acids, they "peel" you immediately when you have hyaluronic acid it hydrates you immediately and you essentially see it instantly. No later than one month of use, you should see the effect of regeneration on that skin. If you don't see it, you have a bad preparation and replace it. 

Are you interested in how our conversation is continuing? Listen to the whole interview. 

Source: own questioning