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When two are doing the same thing, it is not the same. Chanel could tell you all about that...

Chanel's new collection goes against the brand's founder Coco! What do you think she' d say?

Martina Šmalclová
09.Jul 2020
+ Add on Seznam.cz
3 minutes

Opulence, where did you go?

When we found out that the new Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020 collection would be in the spirit of opulence, splendour and sophistication, we were overjoyed and expected boundless pomposity. But then we saw the campaign that Chanel had sent out into the world and fell off cloud 9 with a thud… "Is this all we get?" Yes, the Chanel models are an iconic and luxurious affair, but has Chanel seen the campaign that their rival Dior came up with?!

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Martina Šmalclová
fashion editor
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Kateřina Klausová
second option
Móda proti proudu

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Martina Šmalclová

The needle of the scale

If you don't know what we're on about, check out what sensation Dior came up with this time. If we want to talk about pomposity and original techniques, the needle of the scale is most definitely leaning towards Dior. But enough criticism for now! Let's take a look at what Chanel did well this time and what makes this year's Haute Couture collection so unique.

The fantastic four

First of all, we have to point out four luxury models, which really took our breath away with their precise workmanship, choice of material, cut or color. If the whole collection carried in this spirit, and Chanel threw in an inventive audiovisual campaign rather than just a few spins and dances in a minute and a half long video, it would have been awesome. As it is, there's a big BUT hanging in the air...

Open in gallery (8)
Žena ve večerních šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena ve večerních šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Open in gallery (8)
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Open in gallery (8)
Žena v červených šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v červených šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Open in gallery (8)
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Playful lacing

One piece we were definitely pleased with are the innovative high-heeled shoes with lacing, which will brighten up your every outfit. We enjoy all the variations available: classic black, soft cream and playful peach. This is simply a hit in the bull's eye and, slowly but surely, we are making room for these masterpieces in our shoe cabinet.

Open in gallery (8)
Žena v šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Open in gallery (8)
Žena v kostýmu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v kostýmu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

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Žena v barevných šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v barevných šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

A Knight's Tale? Never again!

Believe it or not, with this, we've reached the end of the list of Chanel's qualities represented in this collection. Yes, we are just as shocked as you are, and we'd like to recommend Virginia Viard to go through the brand's archives or check out her work from a few seasons back, draw some inspiration and, in the future, give Chanel models the uniqueness that makes them what they are again. And if we can have one last wish, we'd like these models that strongly resemble the costumes from the movie "A Knight's Tale" to be gone forever...

Open in gallery (8)
Žena v modelu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v modelu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

More models from the Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020 collection can be found in the gallery at the end of the article.

Martina Šmalclová

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Kateřina Klausová

What would Coco say?

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

My memory may not be what it once was, but I lived under the impression that Coco Chanel was for freeing women from nonsensical models. She wanted to give them simplicity, functionality and a perfect fit.

Of course, I'm aware of the fact that we live in a different era, but even so, I think it would be nice to follow some of the principles on which the brand was built. And let's be honest here, even this first dress...

A handmaid

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v černých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v černých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Alright, in this case, we can talk about simplicity, but if the model was in red, you could wear it as an extra in the series in The Handmaid's Tale. And yet it would be so easy to do this right! Shorten it, remove some stuff, add a Chanel element... Okay, I'll shut up now.

Is it a dress, a vest or pants?

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v červeném kostýmku Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v červeném kostýmku Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

I'm slowly opening the picture... Yes, yes it looks like a classic, yet more modern version of an ensemble... Yay! But wait... Where does this lead and why? Why can I see no end yet? Is that a dress? Oh no, no, no! They couldn't have put pants in... Oh. They really did. Great. Next, please!

Sigh, I don't want to be Cruella de Vil! Please, give me something nice already!

Rare classical tones

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v modelu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v modelu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Great, I won't have to be a total harpy today. This actually works. It does remind me of Chanel and it's wearable. The question remains whether I'd like to spend a six-month payment on this. By the way, I've only just realized that it's supposed to be Haute Couture and I have a slightly different idea about what high fashion should look like, but who knows if this isn't my only opportunity to praise something in this article, so let's stay with "it's nice!".

Check it out, this is Chanel!

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v kostýmu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v kostýmu Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Wow, is this collection finally getting better? I mean, I still have the idea of ​​the original Chanel collections in my mind, you know, those collections that made my jaw drop all the way to the ground, but I really enjoy this. It could be because I understand that it's probably hard to be innovative all the time. This type of jacket is exactly what I imagine when I hear the word Chanel. Compared to the previous model, this one looks way more ostentatious and has the desired wow effect. At the same time, though, I think one could easily wear it with jeans and a white t-shirt. You could object that last time, I criticized a similar variation from Dior, but I'm telling you, the difference between the materials, that's chalk and cheese!

Gabo style...

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

Uh, I guess I spoke to soon...

The cherry on the top

Open in gallery (7)
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020
Žena v modrých šatech Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2020Source: Chanel.com

I am finishing the article, I'm in a good mood, let's end on a positive note! Besides, I still have a soft spot in my heart for Chanel. Despite those hairy neon Flap bags. With this dress, it's easy to imagine that you live in a royal family, attend the MET Gala every other week, and that acid washed jeans aren't in style now.

Kateřina Klausová
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