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A Dutch designer duo presented their SS2021 haute couture collection.

Sexy Amazons versus Barbie: Viktor & Rolf's avant-garde collection offers an escape into the world of fantasy

Martina Šmalclová
08.Feb 2021
+ Add on Seznam.cz
3 minutes
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Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021

Forget simple clean lines and minimalism. Viktor & Rolf fashion shows are always an exciting and unique experience that seeks to challenge prejudices about fashion and bridge the gap between fashion and art. This year, instead of collections full of crude messages or bed-shaped dresses, we got an imaginary show inspired by parties that have always been there and will return one day. If you miss having a social life, this collection will assure you that you're not the only one. That's why Viktor & Rolf offer an escape into the world of fantasy. Where will they take you? To an underground party!

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Martina Šmalclová
fashion editor
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Anděla Vostrá
second option
Móda proti proudu

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Martina Šmalclová

Crudeness and elegance go hand in hand

More crude than ever, disrespectful, almost informal, but elegant under any circumstances. Maybe that's why, at first glance, you won't be able to decide whether this collection is intended for sexy Amazons with wild hair, expressive make-up, sexy tops and bold hair accessories, who only lack a weapon in their hand, or gentle Barbies, who feel best when shrouded from head to toe in puffy tulle and pastel colors. The new SS2021 haute couture collection brings into the world of fashion a wave of positive energy paired with a much needed boldness, and the result is utterly enjoyable.

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Aphrodisiac for the senses

Couture bras embroidered with metal, lace, crystals, beads and vintage jewelry became the dominant feature of the whole show. If a piece of women's wardrobe can set one's senses on fire, this is it. In combination with a voluminous skirt, it literally acts as a magnet that you won't be able to take your eyes off.

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Peach-colored gem with a touch of lilac

Our fashion editorial staff fell in love with a gold top wrapped in gold threads with hand-embroidered flowers combined with gold beads and sequins. The designers complemented the luxurious piece with a voluminous tulle skirt in a peach shade, adorned with a lilac upper layer and a satin ribbon at the waist. The model is completed with a pink satin glove, a gold necklace and a crocheted headband with metal flowers.

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Tylová sukně Viktor & RolfGo to the store
Source: Farfetch.com
Tylová sukně Viktor & Rolf

Achilles' heel: a mix of techniques

We're not afraid to admit that we fancy the sexy careless elegance much more than the wild mix of materials and techniques that the Viktor & Rolf duo introduced right after. Tulle shoulder ruffles with cascading sleeves in combination with bows, crochet or net shorts are simply too much. The overall impression is not improved by the fact that, judging by the combination of colors in these models, the designers must have used all remnants of fabrics they had found lying around the studio and didn't want to throw out.

More models from the haute couture SS2021 collection can be found in the gallery at the end of the article.

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Open in gallery (9)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Růžové šaty Viktor & Rolf Go to the store
Source: Farfetch.com
Růžové šaty Viktor & Rolf

Prodej luxusní vily, Praha 6 Hanspaulka – 748
Prodej luxusní vily, Praha 6 Hanspaulka – 748, Praha 6

Martina Šmalclová

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Anděla Vostrá

Entertainment vs. art

After seeing this thoroughly avant-garde collection, I became convinced that dressing can actually be an art. However, I don't know if the ladies are supposed to be princesses or prostitutes... I have yet to decide. I've always wanted to be decked out like a Barbie doll, but is this a proper dress for a Mattel girl?

As above... not so below

Open in gallery (5)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

What can I say? I don't know if it reminds me of a work by Edgar Degas, or this sexy lady who hangs out at Perlovka every day. But fishnet stockings have always been pretty cool and flowers are a timeless hit, so there are a couple of elements one could use...

Moravia (or Silesia?) rulezz

Open in gallery (5)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Folk costumes are a tradition. They are worn only on special occasions, so there is reason to admire them. I just don't know if Moravian girls would be excited about this model. It's a patchwork of hackneyed Czech-Slovak-Hungarian national costumes and the designers were probably hoping nobody would notice, I have no other explanation... This is not an avant-garde, but a blatant abstract thievery!

A baby blanket for adults

Open in gallery (5)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

This Harry Potter spring coat reminds me of childhood. My mom made the exact same blanket for me. A blanket for a beautiful little princess. I couldn't fall sleep without it. That actually lasted until I was an adult, but let's make that our secret. Anyway, turning it into a magical cloak is a brilliant idea. It wouldn't be a good idea to prance around in it while shouting various incantations, though. The cloak wouldn't look so hot with a straightjacket underneath...

From a caterpillar into a buttefly

Open in gallery (5)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

Whoa, that was scary. This model reminds me of a terribly disgusting larvae that feels like it's a butterfly already. And the disco-style lingerie is supposed to be a parody of singer Cher, right? Although... she might actually like it. I believe that her wardrobe could put up a fair competition against this whole collection. Anyway, if Emanuel saw this butterfly, he would probably have a heart attack. He can consider himself lucky to have scored his poppy doll, because she's always coined the motto - there is beauty in simplicity.

Artistic wedding

Open in gallery (5)
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.
Žena na přehlídce Viktor & Rolf couture SS2021.Source: archiv Viktor & Rolf

But I don't want to make Viktor & Rolf angry, the truth is I'm simply not a big fan of avant-garde art. Those wide skirts are great, I like them. They can hide literally everything. And this model definitely the thing to wear at an artistic wedding full of beautiful people.

Overall, it's a fun spectacle!

Anděla Vostrá
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