Fast Confession - Underwear Designer, Tereza Vu: I Would Like to Dress Jana Plodková

Already in your childhood you have gravitated toward designing, but this was not the first thing you went after. Why?

I would not say that I wanted to design when I was a child, but from my early age I enjoyed drawing and painting. I was accepted for art lessons at the local school of music and arts at only four years of age. I remember that couple of times I had won some art competitions not only in the Czech Republic but also abroad. I admit that fashion charmed me, but I was a bit fascinated by modelling at that time. I did not really consider designing in those days.

But my parents did not consider fashion designing as the quite the right thing; they had other ideas. What was the incentive, that you have finally decided to go after your dream?

At the end of the grammar school I started to study French at the Charles University, but I interrupted the studies in its last year and then cut it off. And then a kind of carousel started. I got married, became pregnant and we moved to London. There I first completed a language course and then I began to look at other fields of study. When I discovered that I could also have the opportunity to study fashion design, I enrolled. And that was really the beginning.

In London you have studied a very prestigious school, the London Collage of Fashion. What did the studies give you?

The studies taught me that nothing is for free. We have had the opportunity to meet with outstanding personalities from the fashion industry and to get to know their life stories. That was a great inspiration for us. In addition, I consider as great advantage the fact that the concept of the studies was a combination of fashion design and its business aspect; i.e. marketing, economy, project management, up to initiation of mass production.

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So, this therefore helped you in the establishment of your brand in the market in 2013 and in time to reach the elite. Was this a piece of good luck or is there a lot of hard work behind all of it?

As I have said, it was quite a lot of hard work. The really difficult bit was to come back to the Czech Republic after seven years, when I have, more than ever before, realised the differences in both cultures, the Czechs seemed more conservative, difficult to approach or practically hostile. When I look back, at the beginning I found it very difficult to find the right direction and not to veer off it even after a multitude of difficulties. Good fortune was that the nearest family stood by me.

What was it like to establish a brand by yourself?

Of course, at first I was very reluctant, but then I told myself that I need to try it. And I dived into it head first. I created a business plan, bought the fabrics, materials, and started to prepare the first designs.

Why did you decide to focus on underwear and swimwear?

In my life I like challenges and I consider lingerie as quite a bit of a challenge. You work with a relatively complex structure on very small areas, plus with fine materials that are difficult to handle and keep in steady shape.

How do you proceed in the designing of underwear and swimwear?

First of all, I think about the collection as a whole. I look for inspiration, draw and create a moodboard. Then I look for suppliers of fabrics. For my work I need to feel and touch the fabric. That is another inspirational moment. It sometimes happens that at this moment I change my original intention. And then comes the scissors, tailoring paper, measuring tape, pins, etc. etc.

The lingerie is charged with sensuality, it has an erotic spark and so on. You yourself look as if you are a romantic and gentle woman, where does it come from?

Appearances are sometimes deceptive. I think that in each of us there is a little bit the "darker" side.

Yes, you are right. According to what do you choose the material? 

I choose the materials according to inspiration and the intent of the entire collection. In the majority of cases however, I work with ultra-fine materials - French lace, silk, organza and mesh.

And the decorations?

Of course, these must always correspond to a specific collection.

What do you draw inspiration from when designing?

I don´t usually have just one piece of inspiration, mostly it is interplay of current life situations and moods. Music, films, books, buildings, pictures, friends, experiences from journeys, scents, materials, in short, there are quite a few things, really.

Which lingerie from your creation do you like the best? Do you wear it yourself?

Of course, I wear my own lingerie, I always like pieces from the latest collections.

Apart from the fact that you have a big clientèle here, your brand is also well known in England. What is the difference between clients and requirements here and in England?

Clients in England are more adventurous, bolder and more open to try something new. And are so regardless of age. The clients here are more conservative, again, regardless of age.

Where do you like to work better?

I work here in the Czech Republic, where I have my studio and workshop.

How far would you like to get with your brand?

I would like my brand to be competitive in the international market of exclusive lingerie brands.

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What do you enjoy the most about designing underwear and swimwear?

Most of all I enjoy creation of the designs - that is the creative part of the work.

How would you yourself describe the models you create?

Minimalist design, emphasis on construction, detailing and use of luxury silk fabrics or French lace and meshes. I design the models so as to especially accentuate the feminine silhouette and typically I use elements which naturally draw attention to sensuality.

Have you considered designing of men´s or children´s underwear?

Yes, I have, but so far, I have not had the time. It is a question for the future.

I have noticed that sometimes you design clothing such as wedding or evening gowns. What do you enjoy about their creation?

Here again I mainly enjoy the design and of course the materials. And then I look forward to it when the bride or other clients put on the clothes.

Would you not like to create a special collection focusing on dresses like that?

I don´t know, at the moment I still have a lot of ideas concerning underwear. But I never say never.

What was the most beautiful dress you have ever created, for whom and for what occasion?

The most beautiful dress I think was the one I made for my own wedding.

And the worst?

I don´t know, maybe the very first.

You´ve achieved to take a part in MBPFW, what kind of feeling is it?

Certainly a superb one. I am proud that I have been given the opportunity to present my designs at this important event.

Which fashion week do you like the most and where do your ambitions lie?

Paris, New York.

How do you prepare for MBPFW?

I prepare the collection and accessories, I design the overall look, select the face of the collection and then I work with my colleagues on styling, visage, music, choreography, including the selection of models. I must fine-tune all the details.

What will your show look like?

I must not say anything in advance, but I believe that everything will work out the way it is supposed to.

Do you have any special theme?

The theme and inspiration is the period of reign of Louis XIV., i.e. The turn of the 17th and 18th century.

Can you describe the SS19 collection to me?

The collection bears the name "Garden of Delight". I focus on the opposites and contrasts and what is at the bottom is also on the top, only there is a different implementation. Ostentation and pomp of royal apparel and as a contrast simple white and powder tone. I wanted to demonstrate that fashion is not just for show, but that it is and must be even where it is not visible at first glance.

What materials have you chosen? And according to what?

As regards materials, I once again use those to which I feel the closest in my work. I chose French lace, silk, organza, mesh and as a complement, wool of a special structure and interesting colours.

What is the best thing in the collection and for whom is it intended?

I cannot at this moment say what is best, you will be able to see and judge for yourself. The collection was designed especially for clients who have their own style and who are not afraid to attract attention.

Who will be the star of your show? Do you have any special models?

Violoncellist, Terezie Kovalová.

Why her?

Because I admire her as a woman. This is someone who managed to achieve something in her field, which is not fashion. In addition, of course, she is a beautiful woman, of electrifying looks, which precisely correspond to my collection.