Fast confession - Designer Natali Ruden Like You’ve Never Seen Her! Hiking Boots, Backpack and Tennis Racquet!
This fashion designer dreamed of a career in an entirely different field. One night was enough to change everything…
Perfect makeup, hair and styling, tailored luxury clothing, high heels. This is the only way you’ll see her at the boutique. Always tidy and professional. But Natali knowns how to put on her hiking boots and backpack. In the interview, she spoke not only about crossing mountain ranges, for which she has even been rewarded, but also about the day when her life changed and her desire to become a famous tennis player transformed into a dream of designing clothing for luxury clients.
Natali, in the past you said that Czech women are afraid to be striking in fashion. Are you trying to teach them to let go more in their outfits?
I don’t think it’s about teaching somebody something. Czechs generally like a rather sober style and there is no need to change that. Even sober clothing can be elevated to higher quality, more beautiful workmanship, but there is no point changing styles because everybody has their own. I support quality, exceptionality, but not cheapness. I was at a ball recently and everybody had a rented dress and it was obvious. The dresses were long, the ladies were dragging them on the floor and I could tell they were not custom tailored. It is important to maintain a style.
Do you maintain your style?
I’ve changed it a lot. When I was younger I liked suits and coats. Now I am known primarily for my ball gowns, evening and cocktail dresses, which surprises even me. In the past, I was stimulated by firmer materials, but now I usually sew using silk and my pieces are more delicate.
You’ve been in the fashion industry for twenty years. Do you think people succumb to trends a lot?
It changes a lot with age. Young people wear whatever the media “tells” them to wear. Older people generally know what suits them and what does not. They tend to opt for quality, which will serve them well and represent them.
I try to buy materials which are unrepeatable, so that every model is an original. The workmanship must be perfect. There is a lot of hand sewing, traditional processing, we strive to create a lot of nifty features and of course comfort is also important. Before, corsets were made so that women could barely breathe in them. Now we make corsets with silicon ribs that hold, are malleable yet don’t confine women so much.
What is your new collection like?
The previous one was focussed on formal fashion and was in a baroque style. The new collection will be called Ocean, it will be of delicate materials with refined tailoring. It should evoke the atmosphere of a holiday. Not like fish, but the atmosphere of a summer holiday and happiness. I will present it at Forum Karlín to about one thousand people.
If it’s to have a holiday atmosphere, did you at least draw inspiration for the collection while on vacation?
So far I’ve only been in the mountains, so I hope I manage to get somewhere else. There is never enough vacation! (laughs)
Do you have any favourite places you like to visit?
I alternate.
For instance?
One of my favourite places to relax is Dubai. I also manage to rest in the mountains, the Austrian Alps or Italian Dolomites are amazing for a vacation. Greece is also beautiful.
You mentioned mountains. I’ve never seen you without high heels. Is it possible to see you in hiking boots and a proper jacket when you go hiking? Do you even do that kind of hiking, or just skiing?
Skiing. I am a passionate skier. But you’re not entirely wrong about the backpack. I used to hike in the mountains with a backpack when I was a child. You wouldn’t believe it but I have five USSR Tourist badges for a five-day mountain tour. I was about ten. My parents used to drag me around the mountains all the time, but that was a long time ago.
Theoretically you could start designing mountain sports attire. (laughs)
(laughs) Theoretically yes!
Or was it so discouraging that you decided you’d rather go for a ball gown?
It was nice and my parents were very sporty, so I have a bond to it. But I am comfortable now, so I prefer taking the lift up and skis down.
When you’re in Prague, is there any place you like to go to relax?
My favourite place is Old Town. Given that my boutique is located there, I manage to rest at work. Personal feelings are important to me. Being where I feel good. And that’s not everywhere.
And do you arrange such adventurous vacations for your son as you used to have with your parents?
He has those with them, so with me it’s usually different. I like comfort, luxury and genuine relaxation.
What is luxury for you?
Luxury is anywhere where it smells nice, where people are beautiful, the weather is great, nothing burdens me and everything is pleasant.
And if it isn’t perfect? How do you cope?
I face it.
Do you deal with things resolutely?
I’ve changed hotels a few times, because I don’t have that much time and if I do go somewhere I want to enjoy it. Sometimes my room was not in order, and once I went on vacation and they were drilling in the bathroom for some reason. They started at eight in the morning, so I dealt with it because I didn’t go on vacation to get no sleep. Thankfully they strove to accommodate me, because it’s bad when a client gets upset.
I assume you have to accommodate your clients. Has it ever happened that a client had a completely different idea and you had to deal with it?
I don’t think so, because if somebody is coming to me, they already know where they are going and what my style is. There are women who think they know what they need, that one line will be better for them than another. Most things are pinpointed in the designs and it is generally not worth doing things based on the client’s ideas. I don’t do that.
So if you don’t like their requirements you don’t sew for them?
If they have an idea and it doesn’t sit with me, I tell them to have the dress sewn somewhere else, because I am responsible for what they order. I designer should be there to design a model that must correspond to the client’s opinion. The client cannot be unhappy. That must not happen.
What about the models you wear?
I practically wear only my own designs.
Everything? So you do your own advertising.
Not just advertising, but I am a demanding client and I don’t like just anything. I am used to wearing tailored clothing since my childhood. I have a fairly large wardrobe.
Are you pedantic when it comes to the competition?
Naturally. I don’t even have to examine it, I can see it at first glance. I buy some models from Armani and their workmanship and materials were and always are perfect. But many brands sin with materials. This becomes apparent during wearing and maintenance.
What is the best advertising in your view?
Advertising is crucial. I can feel it increasingly more. There were times when I didn’t have money for it. I started from scratch. I bought materials, sold a dress, got money and bought new materials with it. I never paid for advertising, but now I feel and know for sure that those without advertising cannot sell. There is never enough advertising. Word-of-mouth is also very important in our branch. Who is satisfied and who is not.
How great an advertisement is a famous model who wears your dress?
It is a huge advertisement. But what bothers me in this case is that the model advertising for everybody. People don’t trust it anymore. It would be fine if models stuck to the same brand for several years. For instances, I started working with Andrea Verešová in 1999 and we work together to this day. She has walked all of by shows except one. I have dressed her on many occasions and she even buys my pieces, which is unique.
Indeed. Czech models usually don’t buy, but borrow! Is it even acceptable for you anymore?
I don’t lend. I think I have expensive pieces. I have expensive materials and I don’t want people who come to my show to feel like they are going to a second hand store and buying dresses worn by models who return them. This should never be the case.
Have you ever borrowed a dress?
No, never.
It was always bought?
It was always sewn for me. My mother was also a designer and quite a famous one. She used to present her collections around the world. Olga Rudenko. I modelled at her shows since my childhood.
So becoming a fashion designer was natural?
I did not originally want to be a fashion designer but then there was a turning point.
When?
In ninth grade. I was playing tennis at the time and I wanted to attend the sports academy. One night I was lying in bed when I called for my mother and told her: “You know what? I’m going to be a fashion designer like you!” And she said: “Come on, you can’t draw and don’t even know how to hold a pencil. School is over in a year.”
And what did you say?
I’m going to be a designer. Not an athlete! I can’t imagine it.
And your mother?
She didn’t really approve. She said it was very hard work and crushing for some people, and that very few manage to succeed.
Why do you think you are among the lucky ones you have succeeded?
I have character and I have talent (laughs). I think I have several characteristics that helped. Every day I had a private teacher for composition, drawing and I prepared for university for a year. I passed with excellent grades. But it was a year of sacrifice. All year I truly work for four or five hours after school. I discovered that I do have some genes and can draw. I was 16.
You have a son. In the past you said you don’t want him to be a designer. Do you think it would be passed down to another generation if you had a daughter?
My son said: Mum, I don’t have to work for you when I finish school rights? And I said: No you don’t! You can do whatever you want, but if you did work for me I would be happy. I think he will be an excellent manager and if he wanted, we could do it like Nina Ricci. She founded multiple companies and her children took it to another level.
Do you think you need a manager?
Absolutely. I’m lacking somebody like that. Somebody who would help me not only actively launch more brands, but somebody who has experience. I have an excellent assistant and seamstresses. These are the people who move me forward.
And how far do you want go?
If possible, to sell abroad. Many people tell me that if I had a boutique in Monaco, Italy or Russia, the pieces would be sold out immediately. Maybe that is the path. But you need a company to back you when you start in a new territory. It’s all about money and it naturally has to pay off.
EXCEPTIONAL FASHION SHOW BY NATALI RUDEN
On 1 June, a spectacular fashion show will take place at Forum Karlín to present the new collection by Natali Ruden called Ocean. The event will be hosted by Leoš Mareš and 180 tickets for the public are be available in pre-sale from 5 April.
